monkeysloth

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About monkeysloth

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  1. FYI what fog's acrylic when using superglue is the fumes during the initial curing of the glue. If you put what you've glued next to a fan for like 5 min after gluing you'll prevent the frosting.
  2. It's Customeeple's objective room. I like the color scheme and the led lights you use. Though I think you need some good scatter terrain on the roofs.
  3. I did my 3d printed ones as 35mm. Seamed about right based off looking at the 25mm bases on top of them in photo's of the demo table. I really should have asked when I was at Gencon though . Lesson Learned I guess. If someone has an accurate sized I'd love to hear it. Also you are correct in that it doesn't come with any 3d scenery. 3rd parties will be selling that though.
  4. Yes this is how it works. I've been running a 2d20 game for almost a year now (Conan). Basically look at it this way. You have a target number you have to get (1,2,3 and so on) and an easy way of looking at that is it's the "cost" of completing the skill. So if you have TN1 and roll 1 success then you pay out the one success and have none left over. If you rolled 3 successes then you subtract the 1 and you have 2 successes that become momentum. If you have a TN3 and only roll 2 successes you have a deficit of one and so your attempt failed and no momentum was generated. However a missing a TN doesn't always mean a failure as the system has the concept of Total Success needed (this is used a lot in their adventures). An example would be you need to hit a TN5 to climb a building but rolling 2 on your first roll means you made it partway up the building and next roll is a TN3 until you succeed or fall (complications). If you read face to face rules and reaction rules (like dodge) you'll see that looking at it how I described above make more sense as, for example, NPC shoots a PC. Standard TN1 for any base attack. The player decided to dodge. NPC rolls 3 total successes leaving with 2 momentum normally but a player rolls 3 on it's dodge so the new TN becomes a TN3. The attack hits but no momentum was generated". Momentum can also be given by talents and equipment (Resources in infinity). Sometimes this momentum can be spent for additional dice other times it can only be spent for normal momentum spends depending on the description. Equipment can also reduce the TN.
  5. Based off reading about O-12 in the RPG book I assume any O-12 faction would be similar to this. Probably have a few O-12 only stuff but pull everything else in from existing human factions.
  6. The elevated road look great. Nice to see levels that aren't just buildings.
  7. So I decided I needed a bit of a change in scenery due to all the assembling and painting I did over the past 3 months and started working on my Aristeia! Land board. I want to make at least part of a legal sized map that's a theme part for Aristeia and using Chibi Mushashi as a mascot. I have a bunch of carnival rides from Knights of Dice as well as lots of Wyrd carnival stuff from Plasticraft I can repurpose. But those will come a bit latter as the chance in scenery wasn't just the Japanese themed stuff I was working on but shifting over to 3D modeling and printing. First up some easy stuff which is the blocking terrain pillars from the demo board. These are up on thingverse for others to print as well as Tinkercad (link on thingverse) where you can copy them and make changes as you see fit. I've made 1x pillars, 2x, 3x and two different 4x pillars that are mirrors to get all the basics out of the way. Each group comes in 3 parts: Top, bottom and middle which you can print out as many as you like to make as tall as you want. Here's some printed out as well as what I'm working on next (and you should see on thing verse tomorrow once I've finished with some changes) the hex standing area for the figures. Since the stands? Not really sure what to call them, are mostly done I'm also working on something a bit more complex that I'm hoping to have up maybe next weekend and that's parts for a Lopan's noodle hut that you can just glue onto the chinese takout box that the Fat Yuan Yuan came in. Planning on a door, sign ordering window with counter. Let me know if there's anything else people want as I eventually plan on released a standalone model that you can print out instead of using the box.
  8. 100% agree about Wyrd though I'll add that I find GW recent stuff enjoyable to assemble and Wyrd stuff is a huge pain, as you mentioned, mostly due to how large the components are so you can still have very nice stuff without the complexity. I don't think infinity would be good HIPs plastic due to the tiny bits though I'd love it if the AVA Total figures and Tags all got this treatment. As with PP I would hope people play Infinity for the rules as well and the people I know that play Warmahords do really like the minis (though they're not competitive players). I think though they're a better comparison then you give them credit for as for the longest time they bragged that they were a metal based miniature game (while GW wasn't). Full Metal Fantasy was the slogan for a while and that's because they were metal figures. Matt W would regularly talk about how important it was to stay metal but the wildly fluctuating cost of tin and effort to get new people in was worth the change even though they had a really rough start and man were the forums aflame over it. Now people are over it probably because how much better quality they've gotten. The thing that began to change my mind are the Monolith Conan pieces. While there are a few bad ones in that KSer out side of bendy weapons you really have a hard time telling them apart from metals. I was painting them up at the same time of some figures from Redbox and they just looked great.
  9. And that Rackham had no business sense. But I mostly agree with this but I think the pre-painted aspect hurt them more as if you strip the plastic figures some of the figures are actually pretty good for the time. Yes as moving to plastic has killed Warmahords, Mallafaux and Guild Ball...Oh wait. Not really. The hobby aspect of Wargames has always been a catch-22. My friends enjoy the game but don't enjoy the hobby nor do they feel they should have to pay a 3rd party to do the hobby work. As I also said, I don't expect everyone to agree with me, even 6 months ago I probably wouldn't have, but trying to grow the game past traditional Warhammers isn't easy.
  10. Some of the Sedition War stuff was good but there's been a lot of real advancement in PVC quality since then. I quite like these but I'll need to wait to see them in person and probably with some primer or a wash as white PVC always looks softer and lacking in detail compared to what they actually are in real life, probably explaining Lunah, but it can also hide flaws too. I'm probably a minority of the forum crowed but I really hope they come off well as Infinity itself needs to move away from metal. It's great for painting display pieces but I've really come to hate it for actually playing and I'm tired of having people enjoy playing the game but walk away from it due to the time and supply investment to getting things ready to play. A few I've managed to convince just to proxy with bones and other figures but others want to at least play with the figures from the factions and I just can't stomach spending hours assembling things for other people anymore after last weeks assembling a bunch of Tohaa so a buddy would keep playing.
  11. If you don't want to really super invest in pigments they you can get by with rubbing alcohol instead of fixer. And both are only needed if you want to do really strong mud\rust look where there's a strong textured look. With the fixer though you shouldn't have to spray your work with a sealer afterword's as the fixer does that for you. Outside of that water is fine.
  12. ++ to what Section 9 said. Though I don't think pigments are that hard for basic "I want this to look dirty" look. Use a decent sized flat brush that you can get for like $1 at a hobby store just do two things: Daub it on for a light look and rub in it for a more darker stain. It gets harder if you want to get texture with them but it's basically get area wet with either water, thinner + pigment fixer, straight pigment fixer then apply pigment. In the previous list the left water will have the least about of texture while the fixer will have the most. I will say if getting pigments price\quality matters. Pretty much secret weapon or Mig are the only ones really worth your money. Do not buy the pigment sticks or anything that has the pigments compressed like makeup. They should be light and powdery. Also they're a really pain to clean up so I tend to do mine in a small box and if you do need to clean them up off a table do not get them wet or you'll never get them off.
  13. glad to be of help.
  14. Road and Elevated board layout This next one is using a lot more of the roads and the elevated section options of my board set from Wargames Terrain (formally CNC). Deployment Zone 1 Deployment Zone 2 Side So this is a bit of a tricky layout and to be hones not 100% sure how it will play. First off I need lots more stuff for the roads. Hopefully the Microarts stuff will be enough but I also have a bunch of Japanese style food stalls (Yatai) that should work. While I think having just one elevated 1' section is too small I really didn't do much with the second square in the shrine area. Probably some of the Yatai stalls mentioned previously would work. I didn't do a very good deloyment zone 2. I should have placed some of my other customeeple buildings (similar to the ones on the single elevated square) there but at the time I wasn't feeling it. And the square by the bell and willow should have had something else too. I will say that I really like the Zen street lights and how they look on this board. Also looking forward to some cool street signs from Warsenal (you can see one in their new spider district set) as at Gencon there was mention of making those as some scatter. I also need more side railings for the elevated sections. Also I've been thinking of having other things that can slot in there like road tunnels and store fronts. Probably can make it with the printer and some styrene. I'm not happy right now with the containers from Wildlands. The ladders and the platform that you can slide into them don't fit once painted so I'm going to have to sand down some parts so they slide in place properly. Now for the newly finished stuff Planters from Zen. Like how these turned out. For the larger planter I need to add something else to each of the 3 protrusions. Might add some grass or something else to the dirt in all 3. Ema boards from TTcombat. Pretty happy I found these, didn't expect them to exist as was looking at 3d printing some. Chozuya -- These are purification washing locations. Used some water effect from Mig. It was hard to place it down to the overflow section on the floor and doesn't look so hot in the pictures but it's better in person. So this has been about 3 months of work off and one and I'm quite happy with everything. Though I should have used my finer tiped airbrush and probably some guides for some of the roof tiles as things got a bit messy with some. Not 100% sure what my next addition will be. kind of want to start the Spider District but I probably should do the microarts road scatter and buses that I have and finish the cars. Thanks to everyone that took the time to read through all of this.