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About Friethjoph

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  • Birthday April 15


  • Location Southern Jütland


  • ITS PIN S1974

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  1. And.... more mini terrain, produced out of... well, a tiny bit boredom... and one piece because I was in a sushi bar. One can enter and exit the little food vendor. Well, I will need to add some backdrop or something, maybe paint a door to one side, but it is a nice little stall... with the roof detatchable! The advertisement at the side? Ever had a certain type of rice beer named after a City ( 青岛 ) in Shadong Province? The logo of that bottle, glued to 0.5mm plastic front and back, then a 1mm copper wire bent around, and a bit of MDF rest: voila, a very nice advertisement. Some planter, made with sting, more string, an orchid leaf and some plastic pieces from fireworks and a pen. some piece of foam, coated in tissiue and painted as a rock slab, high enough to provide good cover but not total, and a... wait, is that a Kempeitai holding subversive talks to bring down the Ju-Ying Empire in front of an obsolete flag?!
  2. After retouching all the "wood" panels, adding a layer of white to the "plaster" area to dull it up, adding some scratchmarks under the door, painting the door, constructing a workind sliding door (25mm entry exacty!), adding the missing roof on the stonedropper, fixing up the tilted front roofing to be more straight and some other small things it is all finished (well, I did skip on placing the beams that should be under the roof...). For reference: the floor is about as high as in a District 5 building, one can't shoot "down" from the smaller window, but things one floor up are a perfect target from there. S7: Full cover behind it, but must go around. S6: technically 4mm too tall to pass under the beams (you got to talk to your opponent there!) but would fit though the door. S5: easily passes in and through. S4: can get under from behind but not through the front. S2 & S1: only things that can get through the upper floor door (well, 0.5mm too tight in height, but demanding to not allow passage because of that would be assy).
  3. The best moment of building? when you realize things fall into place and just a few tiny bits remain to be placed. Like the roof on the stonedropper. Or paint the door panels. but in all essence? it is now in a playable state. Yes, that door is 40mm, and it opens up... just need to fix the sizing a tiny bit to make it fit a tiny bit better when closed... just a tiny cut along the outer corners and a tiny bit in the middle... and no, the top floor does not come glued to the gate section - they just have a socket and slot connection to prevent jiggling and quick de/reassembly
  4. well, good idea, but no Tatami in the guardhouse! anyway, the lower floor is painted... next step: assemble the doorframe in a way that the doors work...
  5. A bunch of hours on the project (and countless more cramming latin) later, I managed to build both the front and back window fully, and only the roofing is missing on the stone-dropper, then two hours went into staining the thin wood... and the paneling between... and the floor and ceiling for the first floor. All with the same wood stain, a size 1 brush and aided with a hairdryer. This brings the upper floor much closer to completion!
  6. In that vain... I need a few cardbord box TO markers....
  7. I would introduce some "other roofs" to the table for snipers and AD (Zipline!) - just keep in mind that there are 6 to 20 inches street between the roofs!
  8. Update time! After staining the 8x8, cutting the lengthes and assembling the upper frame, the front window lower part and the stone dropper part at the edge, it looks like this: Yes, you can see through the "stone dropping window", JUST enough to allow an arc of fire from someone standing inside down and vice versa. The overlays are the planned front window and the back "appendix" over the stone dropping window. Above the stonedropper, the window will be see (&shoot) through, in the front, the (red outlined) window will be so too.
  9. an iPod (nano?) could fit... If you stuff it with videos.
  10. Necromancy! Or rather project castle progress after 2 Years... After working on ans abandoning some kind of living quarters building, I started with a gate... Which meant starting with making sketches of one of Saiki Castle. Sketches with dimensions in mm on millimeter paper. Doing so took 5 pages: Lower floor, upper floor front, sides, back and roof. That was about 5 or 6 hours... Cutting the 3mm foamboard was surprisingly fast - not even half an hour. Assembly of the rock pillars and upper floor took some hour, but the thin panel edges from 2mm square wood (matches) on the upper floor took like 6 hours... Due to lack of 7mm square wood, some parts are missing and will be filled when I was at the home depot to get something like 150 cm of it. But the roof is somewhere on the way... See yourself here: Addendum: Got myself 2000 mm of 8x8mm, that should suffice... also in the making:wall sections, 100 mm wall length each. 90°internal, 45° internal, 45° external (together they would form a recess), 2x straight.
  11. Wow... really? haven't been here for 2 years?! Anyway... While planning a rather more ambitious project (one of the Nagoya Castle gates), I did a little side build... A Japanese caslte Wall wall... well, at the moment a rather crude one, but it is nasty cover: 4mm holes (enough to shoot through or be shot at) as means to shoot out, 50mm high to prevent easy climbing (some minis still can):
  12. I hope those are all... or did I miss one?
  13. neither am I, but a guideline to help telling what can be made better might be in order - so just categories? But really, I did it for the fun and working with Epoxy I kinda start to luv that stuff... will have to get myself some fiberglass mats or carbon fiber mats...
  14. I work on a Spaß-Marine conversion for my transport... skip on the rocket pods, file down the eagle and skull, paint it up in white/Red (working on that atm) and get a revell pilot into it... maybe add something to make it less GW looking...
  15. For the next challenge... I'd say that if we do it with judging, we need criteria. I propose: *Build Difficulty (best shown with a few WIPs - styrofoam selfbuild with painted grafitis is a totally different deal to buying an MDF kit, putting it together, priming and drybrushing 2 layers of dirt) Range might be 1 (easiest - just put together stock parts) over 3-4 (Intermediate - Some parts off stock, but considerable own effort put into making something unique) to 6 (hardest - no part is used in the way it was intended, all created themselves from raw parts/bits/scraps) *Paint Quality of Diorama (Here the finished photos count most, good lightning can mess it up though) again ranging 1 (basic coloring skill shown) to 6 (masterpiece of painting) *Design - This is how much the result does meet the topic given. Range from 1 (barely in topic) to 6 (This is the essence of the topic!) Then comes the photography challenge... *Scene - award 1 to 10 points for up to 3 photos taken of the unit(s) in the scene; more than 1 photo means the result is equaled out (so 1, 10 becomes a 5.5 for final score) I propose to just sum up the end results, the one with the most points in sum wins.