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About Althafain

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/01/1977


  • Location Bloomington, IN


  • ITS PIN H7587
  1. How is it coming?
  2. Disappointing - thanks for the reply.
  3. No movement on this?
  4. To clarify, I would buy a stack of them this minute if they were available (more unit selections than the PlastCraftGames product).
  5. I just received a set of the new PanOceania decals, and I'm having mixed feelings. On two of my four sheets, the white layer is misaligned with the blue - there is a white edge along the right side, and the blue on the left is transparent. I realize PanO is probably the hardest for quality control, as the decals are blue on a blue background. The sheets I have for the other factions all look good, so I assume the QC people just overlooked these misprints. I'm also wondering if this is a "wave one" product, because the first models I lined up to decal were my Fusiliers and Nisses; of course there aren't any unit badges for either of those. Will you be producing a wave two with light and medium infantry badges? Other than those concerns, the decals seem high quality: thin film, and sharp images even on the smallest badges. I'll definitely buy again if the selection increases, though I might purchase the PanO decals from a store rather than ordering online.
  6. I'm getting a 404 at Are they out of stock, or out of production?
  7. Tycho of Penny Arcade mentioned his interest in Infinity in today's news post. I can't think of any one thing that could result in more publicity. Corvus Belli, you need to airmail this guy a copy of Icestorm yesterday.
  8. Paint is building up on your needle/nozzle. The burst of air dislodges it. I don't have a good answer for what causes the condition, but I get it all the time, and I sort of do just what you did in the video: I paint a stroke, then blow off the excess onto my work surface. I'm eagerly awaiting Angel's book so I can compare my airbrush techniques with his and see where we differ. Maybe we can figure this out.
  9. Thanks for the kind words. Icchan: That Kamau was intended to be the next step in my airbrush experiments. I'd done the gray armor on the earlier Fusiliers with two stage zenithal highlights using a relatively terrible airbrush, and got commensurate results. I'd upgraded my airbrush to something capable of finer lines, and started work on the Kamau, but could not get the mix right. I ended up doing all of those gradients the hard way (slowly, with a brush). That mini was a fun project; I'd decided I wanted to play with the Kamau in my list, but I was too embarrassed to field the model because she was presenting like a cat in heat. I finally cracked the composition when I realized she was sneaking along the wall instead of sticking out her ass. I bent the ankles so she was leaning against the wall, back arched around the ducted water-jet. Sneaking suggested lower lights, hence the relatively stronger shadows. Picken: I've consciously decided to ape Angel's dramatic gradients. I haven't been able to bring myself to use the almost black shades that he uses, but those intense highlights are the idea I'm looking for. Maru: I accept that criticism of the earlier figures (Fusiliers), but I think if you feel that way about the Indigo I can blame it on a combination of my potato-like camera and my limited camera skills. The darkest shades are almost a mahogany, and the lighter ones are practically a blond. I have another photo that is lit from below, showing the shades a bit better: Flieger: I was startled by how great the five-o-clock-shadow came out. It is just a grey glaze, the simplest thing. The insignias were as hard as you imagine, and there are probably more curse-laden layers in those three spots than you'd guess.
  10. Well, it turns out I don't paint often enough to keep my posts out of the archive. Who knew? Take two of Newest projects at the top. Comments or questions welcome. Horace Beech, Indigo SpecOps (awaiting alternate helmeted heads and insignias on alternate weapon arms): Wangari Maathai, Kamau Hacker (Bronze in Master class Single Miniature at Gen Con 2014) (Fun Fact: Tom Schadle of Mayacast also got a Bronze in that category; the difference between him and me is that it took me an estimated 2000% longer to paint mine): Here is Lloyd Harrison, Fusilier Hacker (subtitle Frosted Bangs and Attitude): This is Phillip McIntyre, Fusilier FO: Tracy Bennet, Fusilier: Here's Emmet Wilson, Fusilier:
  11. Posted a photo of my newly painted Kamau. I'm really happy with the way this one came out. For the curious, the scenic element behind her is removable for LOS purposes. It is secured with a guide pin and two sets of rare-earth magnets.
  12. I don't think OP was crazy; I was at the Gen Con seminar, and I walked out expecting to see weapons sprues in the boxes. I'm a teensy bit disappointed to have that hope dashed. But what is super-disappointing is that the Angus model looks nothing like this: What a missed opportunity! Think of all the PanO players that would have bought the box just for a different Fusilier model!
  13. I've used the P3 paints, to a limited degree. I've had great luck with their black, in particular. Savonarola, I don't want to discourage suspicion of technological innovations, but the term "pigment" in paint just refers to "the thing that makes it colored." While historically most paints have used solid pigments ground finely, there is no chemical reason that acrylic resin paints could not use liquid pigments. I suppose it is possible that Privateer is lying about the composition of their paints, but while I've watered the P3 paints down to the point that the binder (or medium) failed, I've never had the pigments crash like they would in a ground-solids paint. I don't recommend the Liquitex acrylics, but only because they aren't formulated for this kind of work. I assume they are fine for canvas or matte board, but I've never been able to eliminate streaking in the thin films that we apply to models. I've had great luck with the Reaper Master Series paints, but terrible luck with their bottles. When I buy their paints, I tend to ream out the inside aperture of the nozzle before using them, as flash from the molding process seems to make them prone to clogging. They've also sealed fairly poorly for me, which definitely limits their useable life. If paint drying in the bottle is a major concern, you could try storing them inverted, as paint that is exposed to air will help to provide a secondary seal. I'd recommend agitating them regularly, but that is a recommendation that applies equally well to whatever paint you select.
  14. New forum avatar! Here's Lloyd Harrison, my hacker. You know, I've been thinking - I agree that the extreme close-ups don't show a miniature in its best light. But I do think there is some value in macro-photography of miniatures. Being able to see individual brush-strokes (or the lack thereof) can be very useful, especially if you're interested in investigating new techniques. If you'd like to see these miniatures at a more reasonable resolution, I've got a log up at
  15. Posted two more photos of newly painted Fusiliers. To the various responders who've suggested more detail on the bases, or insignias on the models, I agree. After my force is painted up, I'll go back and do all the bases at once, so that all the techniques will match. I paint so slowly/have such limited painting time available, that I have a bad habit of switching paints or even techniques mid-project, and I definitely want the bases to be uniform. Also, I'll be painting all the unit insignias once a particular unit is complete.