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About osirisblue

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  • Birthday May 23


  • Location Southern Indiana, US
  1. Cost/anticipated sales is likely a driving factor... they used to make a beautiful yu jing ... (uh?) palace looking textured base, but seem to have stopped. Shame too, as they were beautiful once painted.
  2. Did something structural change in 1.16.1 ? It's straight broken for me, and I've never had any issues before (in a couple years of use). It wouldn't update, even running as an admin. So I deleted and reinstalled. It went on okay, but none of the buttons work, the assistant is in Spanish and only says hello. I'm on Windows 64 bit version... anyone else having issues?
  3. The internet! Tohoku, apparently. When I make terrain, I usually shop around until I find an image that invokes the right sort of feeling in me, then just keep it up while I work. Even if it's not exactly a copy or what I'm doing, I really like having it there to keep my mind in the right place. @Atreyu, that'd be a decent bit of advice for you as well.
  4. True, but the color helps them pop on a greater variety of tables, including on my FLG snow mat. Plus, I was working off of something more like this?
  5. The Citadel Woods painted up like Japanese Cherry Blossom can actually look pretty nice. (Full disclosure, likely going to have to edit this to get the image to embed right.)
  6. Please do. Especially if it's painted. Unrelated, I was debating which way to build mine, and after reading this, I think I'm sold on the Red Fury.
  7. This is really cool. Well done. I got lucky and have some old modular cardboard terrain from the early 90's (and maybe necromunda?) that works alright for a similar purpose, but it's not nearly as unique as this.
  8. I'll definitely check that out later. I haven't played much during N3, but I've tried to keep up with battle reports forums, etc, as best I can. It'd be good to find a group even if it's small. I've got another guy about an hour away I'm trying to get hooked as well.
  9. Evansville area usually. There used to be a small group of players in Bloomington, but that dissolved a couple years back. (College town and all). I do travel north from time to time though. I'd love to try and find a few players down here, as I have a ton of terrain, and even a couple ringer army starter packs I'm trying to paint up.
  10. For the record, I definitely would... though apparently no one else.
  11. Hey @Savant, know anyone further south? I make it up to Indy once in a while, but it's more of a treat than a regular occurrence. Still, always good to see another player in the midwest!
  12. Seems like a bit of a crunch for two weeks, but a solid idea. Good luck!
  13. I did one of these as well, I'll have to post it as soon as I finish the last little bit. Really easy conversion.
  14. @Golem2God I honestly wish I knew. Right now I'm calling it magic purple, as I literally don't know how I got there. I wasn't happy and kept adding layers and shading etc until it looked about like that. I do know I used a black primer with no highlight spray, vallejo game air purples, their blue wash, and the GW purple wash. Exactly what went where.... not as much. For airbrush, something like, black, dark purple, light purple, thinned dark purple, light purple, GW purple wash mixed with a few drops of vallejo's (VERY STRONG btw) blue ink, spot highlight purple, fine spot highlight with a little purple and a little white thinned. Brush lowlights were black or dark purple depending on whether or not they faced upwards, and brush highlights were thinned light purple, with a 50/50 white mix for the brightest spots. Wish I could be of more help.
  15. https://brittonstinyadventure.wordpress.com/2016/01/11/builds-on-a-budget-squadkill-team-case/ Ignore the rest of the blog because it's old and I never update it, but this post might be useful to you. It's not answering the question directly, but might be a useful storage tool for you in a space like that. These cases are really good for small infinity forces/club ringer armies as they have a couple key benefits. A.Cheap to build, and hold 12 25mm base models, and a couple of some 40mm or dice, tokens, etc. B. Actually protect the model and its paint job, whether stored horizontally on a shelf, or in a bag/backpack vertically (rare for cases IMO) C. Allow you to see what army is in the case via the clear lid. I have bigger foam cases, but this is nice when I just want to take a handful of models for a demo or something.