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About JJ.Konko

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  1. Cool, will go with that. Something just did not feel right about it for all of us so decided to check. Thanks
  2. The problem is that it makes no ruling either way in the scenario, and the rules do not cover it. It makes a big difference to the game and we would like to know what the intent is. Looks like one of those times when it was clear for the designers and they just missed how it could be understood differently. Easily done.
  3. Ok, my group is debating whether unconscious models that are then or have had been glued, or Isolated score points. I think not but cannot find a good rule either way in the book. I would assume unconscious overides the other states but does not cancel them?
  4. Hi CB team. I would have loved to come to the interplantry this year but the dates do not work. I work in education and therefore cannot choose my holidays. the first week of september is a standard start date for schools in the UK and maybe other counties too (the school I work at in japan follows the UK system). I know America starts on the first monday of September in most states. Teachers nearly always have a training and preperation week before that start date so holding the interplanetery on the last weekend stops a lot of people having the chance to go. Could you hold it a little earlier in aurgust next time or every other time as I would really like to attend again at some point. Maybe match it to gencon. When gencon is late the interplantery is the last weekend of August, when it is early maybe the second week of August? the weekend before last would be extreamly tight for teachers to make as well but it could be done. second week would be great. Anyway I hope everyone has a fantastic time.
  5. Hi CB. I am loving the look of the US ariadna stuff. It would be great to know if the pre order extra mini version and the van zant model will be available at the event as it would save me paying for extra postage to Japan.
  6. Thanks. I could not find the old thread about it. At least it is possible somehow.
  7. I remember that towards the end of N3 a cover for elevation rule turned up on the forum and FaQ I believe (I may be wrong on the official nature, it got quit muddled towards the end of N2). It stated that if your base was higher than the top of a model (silhouette now) that WS firing at you and your base was not visible from said model you got cover. This makes perfect sense to me from my experience playing paint ball. A target above you can do a little squat down and you are trying to hit a very small area while they are shooting at all of you. Taking the high ground with bowmen or firearms has been a staple tactic for hundreds if not thousands of years. I was hoping this rule would be in th N3 book but elevation was not really covered at all. Just being pone and being higher grants cover. But this seems very restricted. A very low lip on a building would stop you seeing, and getting to the ledge without the enemy seeing the top of you silhouette would be 2-4 orders depending on angle. Does this rule still stand? Will it make a new appearance maybe in N3 human sphere? No clear elevation rules only hole in the rules that bothers me. Well that and the lack of speculative fire restrictions. What do others think?
  8. I was looking forward to beaconland. Had a great list made for it. Well guess it will be scrapped. I am quite comfortable with my other list already. Looking forward to it.
  9. Part 3 rocky outcrops. I wanted to have some to break line of site add some extra leaves to the game and to just have something to manoeuvre around. This process took a long time with a lot of steps. The first was to cut Styrofoam in the the base shape. I was careful to make sure a model could stand in the majority of the rocky surface. The next stage was to cover the Styrofoam in slacking plaster. I was not to fussed about getting it on evenly or without blending all the applications together perfectly because when dried I wanted it to have reandom cracks. It is important however to get at least 5mm-10mm of plaster on all the areas. When it dried after a few days I spent a long time going at it with wire brushes to scratch in erosion lines. This was the most labour intensive and time consuming section of the process. After this all the rock formations got a layer of watered down wood glue. When doing this be careful not to wet it to much and lose the erosion lines. After all this they got a coat of gray primer and worked on with the air brush to give it different hews and make it look more natural. I used Vallejo model air. Black, gray and light brown mixed togheter in different combinations. Here are the results. And this is what the table is looking like so far. I have got about 33% done.
  10. I would love to see this stuff in a cut your own MDF file. I would even pay a bit for it. I do not have the skill to do this with card board. If you ever feel kind enough to make them I (and many others) would be very happy. Now to go back and throw some likes at things.
  11. Project 3. Logs and bamboo. I had a half day at work today to popped in to tokyu hands (a shop with lots of different sections including art supplies) and stumbled across some samples of this oven baked clay http://www.bestfromjapan.com/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=12411 It seemed to come out really hard with a smooth surface and I thought 'great stuff for making bamboo. So I picked some up as it was only ¥500/£2.50 for a pack and did an experiment. I forgot to take a shot before it went in the oven so here is a shot through the door. As you can see I also tried making some fallen trees. Here are some results. I rolled the clay round wire to keep it straight then scored lines to make the section divides. As you can see the clay drank a little in places and this reviled the wire in two places. I will fill this in with green stuff before painting. I am quite happy with them as the texture is spot on and I am sure they will look good once painted, and with a few levels added to them. The tree fallen trees came out well and I spent 30 mins adding paint. The texture was just done with some wire bushes. The one mistake I made was not taking enough time to remove all the semi lose bits on them before painting so I am getting a few but not many chips. This could have been avoided with a bit of tooth brush love. They are really solid and I will be using some more of this stuff.
  12. The time commitment is quite long. for the big trees wire frame; 2-3 hours coating the frame 45 minutes. Painting 30 minutes. leaves 45-60 minutes Total 04 to 05.15 hours small trees frame 90-120 minutes coating the frame 30 minutes Painting 20 minutes leaves 30-45 minutes total 02.50 to 03.25 hours. it seems long but doing a bit here and a bit there the time adds up quickly. I do mine while watching shows or listening to an audio book. If you spend a few weeks getting ten or so to the coated frame stage the painting time can really go down because you can do them all in one sitting. Well now the Question has been answered time to show project number 2 I have my first Tournament as a TO coming up this Sunday. this is the first one I know of out here in Tokyo so terrain is a big hurdle. I have found a gaming store that is very interested in hosting Infinity events but are not fully equipped terrain wise. So yesterday I popped down to the store and tried out an Idea for a super cheap table. from the ¥100 store I brought 12 clear boxes and a bunch of stickers in different sizes. Step one was to arrange the stickers on the boxes where i would want walls and doors to be. The important thing is to mirror the positions on both the inside and outside of the box. I kept the windows level with each other by putting a rubber band round the outside as a guide line. one tip is to put the stickers on the inside first as it is easier to mirror on the outside. Step 2: Spay the outside of the boxes with some primer in one colour. Step 3: Spay the inside in another colour. Step 4: Spay inside and out with matte sealer. Step 5: take of the stickers. Here is the result. The whole table cost around £35/5000¥ and there is enough primer left to do another 12 at least. I want to order some graffiti templates form customeple this will add some extra detail to the buildings but for now they will do. One nice thing is the boxes allow interior play and multi levels were as the ice storm buildings have roofs so they provide some good vernation to play. Last note the plastic boxes fit inside the ice storm ones Will have some more jungle terrain up in a week or so.
  13. I just started a thread on a jungle/forest table project. Take a look at these trees, I did a how to set of pics. Would look great on your board.
  14. When it comes to terrain my vision of what I want has always out stripped my ability to make things from scratch. Plasticard and foam board never cuts straight, my walls are wonky and my Styrofoam ends up looking like bady cut Styrofoam. This led me to stick to store brought terrain that has been great. However one kind of terrain I always wanted has never been made to a standard I want and that is trees. We all know the perfectly cylindrical wire and flock trees that occupy so many gaming tables. I have used them but always felt like they we too small and perfect and blocked my immersion into the environment. I always wanted a great looking forest to game in since my teens but did not have the skills to make it. Then About 6 months ago I saw two terain blogs that inspired me. http://www.terrainthralls.com/Tutorials%20folder/Broken%20Coast/Broken%20Coast.html And https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FVnBMgcqjNQ I then decided to try my own trees. Over the past 5 months I have tried a number of variations of tecnics and have found a method that I am now very happy with and am well on my way to having he forest of tall trees to play on. Step one was to get a load of cheap wire from the 100¥ store. About a roller or 60p. This was to form the frame of the tree like so. (1.2mm wire) The bigger the tree the more coils you use different lengths for different highs etc... The first trees I made had roots at the bottom but some of my later ones do not. The next stage was to use a thinner wire (about 0.7-0.8mm) To coil around to strengthen it and provide a smoover serface for adding clay or green stuff later. I did not do this with my first and it made the next steps much harder. Next stage was to add green stuff or equivalent to the outside of the tree. I used clay at first but felt it did not come out quite right and was hard to stick to the metal. The above tree will be a mangrove stile tree and will have a water base when done. It will be paradiso forest after all. After this the trees were undercoated brown and used sponge to add different shades and bark effects. The last stage was the hardest, the leaves. I do not like the moss sponge stuff you see on railway set trees, as once again it just does not look quite right to me. I spent a long time trying to find a solution and once again the 100¥ store held the answer. I found these. Gureen baru. In a number of stiles. You can pull the sections off little pegs the hold the on and rethread them on to wire (I found green wire a the 100¥ store too) and then attach the bunches you make to the trees. The end results are great. The scatter was made from driftwood with some weathering powers and other plastic plant bits from the 100¥ store. I have about 8 finished so far and about 10 more a various stages. I also have large rock formations that are planed and being made but that will be a post for another day. Here is a shot of my plan for my jungle/ forest table. And I will keep updating the progress as well as some other projects. I hope you have not found this to long winded and dual and any advice and comment is welcome.
  15. The skiavoros is in my opinion the best Lt in the game. For starters he has G:mnemonica so loss of Lt is impossible even if your Lt dies each turn. This makes having stratigous Lv2 fantastic as it does not matter that the enemy know he is Lt. You get two reserves and the Lt order becomes a regular order so your main pool can have 11. He has 3 armour and NWI and mimetism so he is durable and can get the edge in a fire fight. He has a plasma rifle and BS13 so can do some good damage. He also has a nanopulser so can make intuitive attacks Vs camp with his 16 wip (not bad for initiative rolls either) . This is all for 52 points or 64 if you want sepitor plus (I do not go for this option) The only down side is 4-2 movement. But that has never stopped him killing lots in my games. I think CA get the best drone too. The Q drone is the only total reaction with mimetism and now if you give it assisted fire it gets Marksman ship L2. So ignores cover. So even when facing off against another HMG in their sweet spot with both in cover the Q drone is at +3 and the opponent is -3.