Section 9

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About Section 9

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ITS

  • ITS PIN U9598
  1. The iMetron looks good! I can see that 'all pastels and no earth tones' working, but I still recommend getting some fluorescent paints (like the Vallejo Model Color range or the Pro RC range if you're planning on using LOTS of fluorescents) for the eyes and other glowy bits. Blacklining and some fluorescents really makes for the anime art style.
  2. like @Maru says, hit a beauty parlor/barbershop supply store for the nail polish pigments, it will probably be your cheapest option and you will get the stuff immediately. Might have to go to Goth-in-the-Box, I mean, Hot Topic or Spencer's, but I'd expect a standard beauty supply store to have nail polish pigments. When I was using acetone to strip models, I bought my acetone from the local beauty supply store. @Mob of Blondes: If you have a big bottle of that white fluorescent paint, I'd like to buy a 20ml dropper bottle (or whatever the standard Vallejo/Reaper small dropper bottle size is) off of you. Suppose I could go for as much as a 60ml bottle, if you can get a dropper lid like the Vallejo Pro RC bottles. I already have a bottle of the Pro RC phosphorescent paint, and that's NOT the same as fluorescent. (Phosphorescent glows in the dark after soaking up sunlight, while fluorescent glows under UV light, for those that don't know)
  3. No guesses for almost a week? Ok, I give. It's Priss, from Bubblegum Crisis. (relatively light and very fast HI, with anti-boomer ranged weapons and explosive 'knuckle bombs'). I was going to run the whole set of Knight Sabers, but Nene would be the hacker (probably HD+, since AHDs suck), Lina with a MonoCCW, and Sylia with Dual CCW. Oh, and Maki would be their on-site engineer. It's too bad that the licensed minis for BGC (available from Ground Zero Games minis) are true 25mm and look like kids next to Infinity minis.
  4. I almost always run Holo2, with the two echoes. Forward Deployment L2 means that you can set up those three in places where they are all covering each other. Sure, two of them are fakes, but the question is, "which two are fakes?"
  5. Especially since I always seem to end up with the Ninja KHD in Imperial Service. Good to have an additional beatstick, especially if you are running on tight tables/Boarding Actions.
  6. Actually, since I do have permission to distribute, I'm just going to drop the link to the papercraft traditional Japanese buildings here in the thread: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B3_l8wJjuwjadDNaVmJZamwxRUk
  7. There were so scenarios! Lost Post and Beachhead.
  8. I have some of the 15mm Normandy buildings. They look really good, PlastCraft uses both white and gray foamed PVC for their buildings, depending on what the wall colors are. You can assemble them and then put a couple drops of superglue down the inside joints to make rock-solid buildings. Reminds me, I need to make the second set of those buildings. You will want to have an Xacto knife on hand for some light trimming, especially for cutting the pieces out of the backing plate. I'd honestly not recommend getting a table full of the Plastcraft buildings. There are only 6 different designs, I can't see having more than 2 of each in the same part of the city (well, maybe 3 or 4 of the Suburb, Yellow, and Star Hotel buildings). Plus, you need an 8x8 Objective Building for about 1/3 of the ITS missions. Also, those are pretty small buildings for the most part: The Sushi Corner and Shopping Center are roughly 9x6", the Yellow and Suburban buildings are roughly 4x6", the Star Motel is 4x4", and the Armory is 4x5". I like bigger buildings, but groups of small buildings are fun to move across (just keep them close enough to Jump between, 3" apart or less), and can act as a larger building for table-layout. But even 4 buildings together is only about 12x12 on the table, you'd need probably 36-48 buildings even with an 8x8 objective building on the table, which would be 6-8 of each building. Too many duplicates for my taste, plus that's not cheap. Remember, the basic Infinity table is that Objective Building in the center with 8 similar-size buildings around it in a 3x3 grid, at least 4 smaller buildings (or large vehicles) in the intersections between the big buildings, and then scatter terrain to give cover for troops to advance up. So I'd try to design roughly 18" square (well, 14" with a 2" border all around) combinations of buildings that you can use. A park is a valid thing to have in a city!
  9. Yeah, that's why I'm just going to use the LE 'Saber.' I can't stand the PanO combi/multi rifle design.
  10. Yes and no. Now, all range bands are 8"/20cm. In N1/N2, you'd have these 4"/10cm bands in there as well (or something with a 12" +0 range band), and a lot of time various weapons would only have a 4" spot where they had a better to-hit mod than whatever was shooting back at them. It made positioning and visual range estimation much more critical skills. Though I do kinda miss the huge ranges of the old sniper rifle and HRMC (0-12"/+0, 12-36"/+3, 36-52"/-3, and 52-104"/-6). Problem was, HMG range band was 0-8"/+0, 8-32"/+3, 32-48"/-3, and 48-96"/-6. So the only time a sniper rifle really outranged the HMG was when you were playing on at least a 6-foot table, and you needed the XVisor to make it work reasonably well. 48-52" range bracket! That really felt like sniping someone... Played a lot of N1 and N2 games on 6 foot tables, going up the length.
  11. Thing is, I know a girl with those proportions. about a 20" waist and 34" hips!
  12. 4Ground Terrain has some traditional Japanese buildings with thatched roofs (not linking directly because forum rules), they're pre-painted and pretty nice. Pricey, but nice. No scifi touches, they're for historical gaming (28mm Historical -> Shogunate Japan). The thatched roofs are actually pieces of teddy bear fur, for best 'thatched roof' appearance you need to comb the fur and hit it with diluted white glue. Oh, wait, almost forgot. I have some traditional/historical Japanese buildings in papercraft. PM me with your email address, I will send them to you. I do have permission to distribute. It's for the companies that have bought the Designed for Infinity License and therefore have a local forum. Plus the Spanish forum had many bad cases of jackassery involving the sales subforum that pissed CB off so much that no sales are allowed anymore. Go visit the Data Sphere forums (banner in my sig) for a bunch more terrain sellers.
  13. Yeah, I think the Buddha looks great!
  14. I don't think you used enough fluorescent paint, Maru!
  15. I may have to get some of those nail polish pigments to spike the Vallejo Pro RC colors with... especially if they have a good purple (at least my bottle of Vallejo Pro RC purple fluorescent is pretty weak).