Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'gecko'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Universalia. Maya in general
    • Maya news
    • Reports From The Front
    • Infinity news
    • Users
    • Infinity Events and Tournaments
  • VissioRama. Commercial channel
    • Antenocitis Workshop
    • Bandua Wargames
    • Battle Foam
    • Blue Table Painting
    • Customeeple
    • Information From Distributors and Shops
    • Micro Art Studio
    • Plast Craft Games
    • Warsenal
    • Luxumbra
  • Sabot! Your war channel in Maya
    • Online Events
    • Rules of Engagement
    • Campaign: Paradiso
    • Infinity Tournament System (ITS)
    • Infinity Army
    • N2 Archive
  • Vergilius. Personal assistant
    • Access Guide to the Human Sphere.
    • PanOceania
    • Yu Jing
    • Ariadna
    • Haqqislam
    • Nomads
    • Combined Army
    • Mercenary Market
    • ALEPH
    • Tohaa
  • Fussion. The artistic channel
    • Miniatures
    • Fan Art
    • It has been written...
    • Arcologies
  • Arachne. Out of Maya
    • The Bouboutique of the Caravansary

Found 13 results

  1. So the problem with reptile series TAG's is that they don't look like a series, they have the widest range of chassis types in the game. Head or sensor cluster, internal or carried weapons, tail or no tail, operators legs in thighs or not, master arms or not they cover the full range. Now I've already made my Iguana by adding a tail and repeater antenna to a reposed lizard but my Corregidor also need a pair of Geckos. So I'm going to scratch build, I'm not a great sculptor but if I make some plastic templates jointed with wire I reckon I can manage a half decent job of building them up with green stuff so here is a start. The plan is to keep Gecko style legs with a Lizard type sensor cluster and a tail (theory being that the tail and sensor cluster were standard across the series, later series used higher speed gyros and didn't need the balance tail). I'll also stick with built in weaponry but go with forearm mounts like the salamander rather than firing through the palm. I'm attempting a running pose with the first (combi rifle) gecko.
  2. Hello! So I decided to start playing Infinity and went for the Nomads! I bought the Icestorm box recently although soon after I saw one list on the internet that combines models that I like the look of. Here's what it looks like: Jurisdictional Command of Corregidor ────────────────────────────────────────────────── 10 GECKO 2 Combi Rifles, Chain-colt, Panzerfaust / . (0 | 53) GECKO PILOT Assault Pistol, Knife. (0) GECKO Mk12, Chain-colt, Blitzen / . (0.5 | 54) GECKO PILOT Assault Pistol, Knife. (0) ALGUACIL Hacker (Hacking Device) Combi Rifle / Pistol, Knife. (0.5 | 18) HELLCAT Boarding Shotgun / Pistol, Knife. (0 | 21) WILDCAT Spitfire / Pistol, Knife. (1.5 | 24) WILDCAT Lieutenant Combi Rifle + Light Flamethrower, D-Charges / Pistol, Knife. (0 | 19) WILDCAT (Number 2) Combi Rifle + Light Flamethrower, D-Charges / Pistol, Knife. (0 | 20) WILDCAT Combi Rifle + Light Flamethrower, D-Charges / Pistol, Knife. (0 | 19) LUNOKHOD Heavy Shotgun, Heavy Flamethrower, D-Charges, CrazyKoalas (2) / Electric Pulse. (0 | 25) INTRUDER HMG, Grenades / Pistol, CCW. (1.5 | 42) 4 SWC | 295 Points Open in Infinity Army Note - I have no idea how does the game play at all, let alone know what to do, but I've read the tactica thread and other forums, so I get the gist of how the units work on the table. Other units I like is the Mobile Brigada and I wouldn't mind buying the box, but I think I read somewhere that they're fairly meh. I'm really hyped by the Gecko models, especially Mk 12, so I included both versions in the list to make the most out of purchase. I'm also considering an Iguana in their place, but I like it's looks less than Geckos'. I wouldn't mind playing non-sectorial list either, but Corregidor looks like a bubble of safe space where I like almost all of the models and no furries can be allowed, haha! Unfortunately the list contains koalas, of which very idea I loathe (metal teddy bears don't really cut it for me, but I guess I'll have to bear with them if I want to use Lunokhod), just like the zondcat, but oh well. Would it be too much for me to ask for some advice on the list? Both playing and/or modifications to it.
  3. Up to now, I have played very light lists. 14-16 Orders mostly made of LI/MI/REMs. In my games, I have gradually found certain pieces to be favourites, though most have had their opportunity to shine at least once before. I currently have very little experience with HI or TAGs and have been considering adding them to my lists. I am not really too sure what to buy, however, as I am really not sure what benefits they add. I have used my MULTI Rifle Mobile Brigada in most of my games and, to date, he has failed to perform in every single game. Sometimes I used him poorly, other times I rolled poorly, others again he just did nothing useful. It has been a whole lot of points doing very little. That said, the Mobile Brigada is one of my favourite minis. I have been looking at the Mobile Brigada box since it came out, but I am not sure whether it is actually of any value to buy: The Boarding Shotgun option is relatively cheap, but without any special deployment rules to get him there faster I am not sure it is worth taking alongside or in place of a MULTI Rifle. My feeling is that it would only be worth using in a Fireteam:Core. The Hacker has to be the worst choice for a Hacker in Corregidor, with a henious cost for a mere Hacking Device. I can definitely see this being of defensive value in a Fireteam:Core, but I feel like it would not be worth while as a solo unit. The HMG is pretty beefy, but again does not impress me. For 0.5 SWC less I get an Intruder HMG, trading 1ARM and 1W for CH:2 and MSV:2. It seems to me like the Intruder would be the better choice in the overwhelming majority of situations. The Missile Launcher seems a little more interesting. A lot of killing potential on a model that can hopefully survive being hit once, but even with ARM4 and W2 a B1 weapon seems high risk. It seems to me like the Mobile Brigada box would only be worth running in a Pain Train list, which does not really excite me much. Is the MULTI Rifle profile the only one worth running outside a Fireteam:Core, or am I underselling some of these profiles? The next most obvious choice for a heavy unit is the Gecko. This is an interesting-looking unit, but the gun options are decidedly unimpressive. I ran them both through the calculator and they math about the same in the 8-16'' range. The Combi Rifles are better at close range, but the Mk12 has the ability to sit outside Rifle range and still pick up +3 (potentially very useful). To me, the two profiles seem balanced as options, as the 17-24'' range band is not always in an attractive position (multiple AROs). I am just not entirely certain how to use them. They are large models that only move 4-4, cannot reliably Dodge, lack long-range weapons and do not have profiles that offer much punch even when they get into a good range. I figured maybe they could get into the middle of the table and enter Suppressive Fire to make an objective extremely unattractive-looking. Locally, we play 20x20, and some of the missions involve holding buildings or other areas. I could see Geckos being VERY attractive in these missions. Is that the best use for them, however? How do you use Geckos?
  4. Howdy y'all so i've recently been playing around with the army builder and decided to try out a few armies centered around a gecko duo team. So I was hoping to get your thoughts on the utility that a pair of linked geckos provide. (And confession I'm hoping that someone has run a gecko link team and had it hit with the expel program) On paper and in my head it looks like both gecko profiles, backed up by someone with an aggressive HMG looks like a very potent weapon. The HMG brings long range, high burst power and can use suppressive fire which would otherwise break the link, then against enemies trying to get under the HMG the MK12 takes over and anyone trying to get into the MK12's bad range has to deal with the twin-combis on the other gecko. In ARO the geckos each can throw out a very potent shot(s) from their launchers and suppressive HMGs are certainly solid. If run up a flank then an airdropped tomcat could easily come into fix any problems/take objectives after the trio took them. So overall has anyone else had good(or bad) luck running linked geckos and if so why?
  5. H-Logs stands for „Hydra Logistics“, a company that has its origins in the Nomad Nation and is specialised in providing transport and/or logisical solutions for every kind of cargo. The good relations to the Nomads provide the company with a prominent location in VaudeVille and access to almost every sort of military support. That is highly neccessary, since the cargos are very often targets to all sorts of attacks. Looking for a professional transport solution? -Go H-Logs! Brookers have to be the best in several different aspects. They represent their company on offical occasions and in an economical and financial way, so they have to know their way around market-strategies, numbers and calculations and everything else a real buisnessman has to provide to run a buisness. On the other hand they have to be highly trained warriors, knowing their way around combat tactics, infiltration and every other aspect of warfare they need to deliver their cargo, no matter where it goes. Well, enough of the fluff part. When I started with Infinity I was rather short on funds. Since I wanted to play the game nontheless, I took what was available and fitted. Maybe you recognise them. By now, I am proud owner of some original Infinity Models... tendency growing. Here, I shall keep you up to date on my progress. I am pretty proud of the light reflex on the helmet... Here some "house staff" of H-Logs. I play them as Alguaciles The securtiae lady Mobile Brigada Agualciles Hacker So, that's it for now. Next up a Zero
  6. This is a project log I've been meaning to start for the past 8 months. Unfortunately every time I begin a model, totally intending to take WIP pics and post them, I instead get caught up and paint it to completion. On the upside it means I actually finish models. On the downside, I believe that sharing and discussing works in progress helps advance my painting skills and might inspire others to give it a go, so I've been missing out on this aspect of the game & hobby. So here, goes. First up is the fruit of 2 weeks of labour - The Gecko Lots of effort was made to copy the style of Giraldez, which only made me realise how incredible that guys really is. Most of it this model was airbrushed, then the rest filled in by hand. Lots of blending, glazes and edge highlights. Had some success with the NMM effect which I’ve struggled with in the past. A few thing stuffed up, most noticeably the washes on the muscle fibers ended up thick and partially opaque and some issues with the varnish (which was really disheartening considering its irreversible...).
  7. Some shots of my next gecko. Need to redo the backpack after a terrible airbrush explosion, but its ready enough to face a Tournament at the Krug today in colorado
  8. Well finally put this guy to bed a few minutes ago. Been awhile since I've painted anything at all much less Infinity style. Will be the cornerstone of my noncompetitive Nomad list that has as many Tags as I can possibly do cause I loves them so. (At least till they make some reasonable Mobile Brigadia)
  9. Hey everyone. I've been painting for a number of years and, aside from a desire to expand into airbrush techniques, there was one thing I always wanted to try. That was LED lighting a miniature. Stars aligned with the new Nomad Gecko model (a model I'm sure we can all agree is one of the most amazing CB has ever produced). Not only is it a large, dynamic model, but it is the first TAG with a hollow interior! Well, I said stars aligned, and the Aus Infinity Group happened to be doing a painting competition for "heavies". Perfect! To give you an idea of what he looks like: I figured I'd post up here how I did it, because it's actually pretty easy! You just need patience, dexterous fingers, and to know that you will likely ruin a nice model and have to fix it up again! Step One: Cut and clean everything. That's fairly obvious, I suppose, but it's easier to do all of this now than later. Don't basecoat yet. There's plenty of drilling to be done. Step Two: I use a Taurus Dremel, which I got as a present. It's not expensive and can switch out different drill-heads for different purposes. I mostly use it for pinning, but I got a lot of use out of it in this case! As you can see, I accidentally drilled all the way through. I actually destroyed the mini a couple of times doing this, but a bit of greenstuff and infinite patience seems to fix it up just fine. When I drilled, I used a hand pin-vice first to make the first hole. This gave my wildly powerful (and inaccurate) dremel (seen in the back there) something to guide its passage. I shudder to think how it might have gone had I not had that guide-hole first! Once I drilled out the central hole (using a 3mm drillbit), I turned my attention to the shoulders. Now my TAGS tend to have glowy effects on their shoulders. I wanted to replicate that with real lights. This meant drilling out the shoulder-studs and rebuilding smaller ones using putty. I had to carve a little bit more out by hand to hit the holes properly, but this ultimately worked. I also drilled through the part where the shoulder connects to the torso, to leave room to fit an LED in there. These were also 3mm holes. In all, you are going to want to drill the following holes: The central chest piece (aka the Iron Man light). A hole in the bottom of the torso (see below) for the wires to come out from. As the battery/switch are very large, they need to be hidden in the base. (Optional) The shoulders, as I have done them above. (Optional) I also drilled a 1mm hole through his right leg, to run the wires into, to better hide them. See the pictures below for a better idea of what I mean by this. (Optional) If you drilled out the shoulders you will need to drill at least a 1.8mm hole through either side of the torso, to get the shoulder LEDs to fit through so that all of the wires come out the same place. (Optional) I wanted jump jets and tried to drill out those in the back, as you might see below. I screwed up on these too, trying to widen them. My drill jumped so I had to rebuild them. But hey, with more patience they'd have worked just fine! For reference sake, this is where I drilled the hole in the leg: Step Three: Fixing the poor, mistreated model parts. For this, I used greenstuff. I occasionally stuck the drill bit back into the holes as a 'prop' so that I didn't push the putty all the way through. You could probably achieve the same by gluing transparent sheets over the holes, but I think just using the drill bit is easiest. Again, see how much fixing there was involved here? Probably could have done it easier, had I been more patient. Oh well, beg forgiveness not permission. Step Four: Give yourself room to fit the LEDs. I bought my LEDs from an online Dollhouse light vendor. I assume I can't post up the place I got them from, due to advertisement rules on this forum. Needless to say though, a search of "Lighting miniatures" on Google or Ebay will turn up some good hits. The one I bought them from made it super easy. In the end, I bought three 3mm orange LEDs, two 1.8mm blue LEDs (because I wanted to make the Zero-G jets as well), a battery pack with 3V battery, and a switch. I also bought some heat-shrink tubing, to cover the wires. All up it was about $10-15 including shipping. Now sadly I don't have any pictures of the procedure here, but I can describe it essentially as "make a hole for your LEDs to fit in". This is very important and almost screwed me up. A 3mm LED has about a 5-10mm long stick attached to it which includes its resistor (which is how it lights up)! You will need room for this. The wires are only 0.5mm thick, but the resistor is about 1mm, and so any holes you make need to take that into consideration. You can bend that stick by about 90 degrees, but you need to feed it through a hole eventually! It was a tight squeeze, as the following picture demonstrates: You may also notice in the above that I filed down the shoulder LEDs to be flat. This makes the light scatter more widely, which is what I wanted for the shoulders, as the light is to emerge from three different holes (while the chest piece shines straight ahead). You can do this with sandpaper, as long as you do not file down to the metal filament on the inside of the LED. Step Five: Build the base. Thank goodness Geckos are not moving to 55mm bases after my hassles with this mini! I use engraved MDF bases for my Nomads, so for me it was a matter of cutting into the wood and making room for the battery holder. I angled it so that I could easily replace the battery should the need arise. The switch is quite large too, so make some accommodation for it in your base. This is probably the trickiest part. But with the introduction of "silhouettes" in 3rd ed, it won't matter how tall your mini is any more, so this should become easier with time. Step Six: Paint everything. I did object source lighting around the parts I wanted to be lit with the LEDs anyways. Most LEDs have about 10 hours of battery life from a 3V battery. I wanted my Gecko to glow even when I didn't have him turned on. Here you see all of the pieces of my Gecko painted and waiting to be put together. And here is the base, painted to make the wires blend in. Do not forget to cover your naked wires with some blu-tak or tape before you spray paint the base. Otherwise they won't work until you scrape the paint off of them! Step Seven: Test the LEDs. This is so important. Imagine if you'd gone through all of this trouble, only to find that one of the LEDs is faulty. What a waste of time! You can test them by putting in the battery, turning on the switch, and lightly touching the black wire of the LED to the black wire of the battery, and red wire to red wire. Make sure they work! Also, make sure you turn the switch off after testing, and pull the battery out. I don't know how much of a jolt a 3V battery would give you if you used yourself to complete the circuit, but it probably wouldn't be pleasant. Same with if your battery's red and black wires touched. That's a good way to burn out your battery. Step Eight: Fit it all together and glue glue glue. I always use a superglue-greenstuff-superglue sandwich to get the strongest bond. This has the added advantage of completely sealing off a joint, so that no light can escape through it. The last thing you want after all of this is to have a crack in the joint be super obvious by the light spilling out of it! (Though I did consider leaving the joint nearest the head a little open, to give that 'mantle of light' look.) BEWARE: Greenstuff is partially conductive. Do not let it harden in contact with naked wires. BEWARE ALSO: The Gecko pilot's arms are not very secure. If you are using them, glue them on after you have fiddled around with the wires. I glued them on too early and had to be super careful not to knock them off while doing the later steps. The wires should go smoothly through their holes. I always dry-fit first. It will take some delicate manoeuvring to get them all to fit, sometimes. Be careful not to damage the resistors! Separate out the black and red wires. This is very important as we will be connecting the wires in parallel (not series). This means essentially all the red wires bundle together, as with all of the black. You may notice that the Zero-G thrusters at the back were cut off and replaced with the 1.8mm LEDs. That's because I screwed up and drilled through half of one of them. It was like shaving one eyebrow off. The other was perfectly fine, but it had to go or else look silly. Step Nine: Trim your wires. I did this by clipping them at a length, then placing a hard piece of MDF against one of them and scraping the other side of it with my hobby knife. I then reversed the process to scrape the other side off. You do not want to cut through the wire. You just want to bare naked some of the wire from its sheath. Don't leave too much exposed though, or it will make the next step another kind of Hell to finish. In this picture you can see the red wires bared to metal, and the black wires are already at the next step: Step Ten: Fit the wires of the same colour into a thin piece of heat-shrink tube. This stuff is amazing. It is big enough to fit at least six wires (probably no more than that though!) and once you apply heat to it (I used a blow drier), it will shrink to fit. This has two advantages: It doesn't look stupidly thick. It will bind all of the wires tightly together, keeping them connected. Still, it doesn't hurt to squeeze the tubes and test the LED connection before you shrink them. Again, I repeat my warning that greenstuff is partially conductive. Don't use it to wrap around the wires as an alternative to heat-shrink tubing (which is only a couple of dollars to buy!) This is probably the most fiddly, annoying, frustrating part. I found it easiest to fit the tubing to all of the LED wires first, then slide it back along their lengths to expose the ends, then wrapped the LED wires around the battery-pack wire and slid the tube back down over the lot of them. It is still a major pain in the butt to do though. Step Eleven: Once you are happy with the wires, and you have shrunk the tube around them (and tested them to make sure they work!), you can glue them tight to the side of the model and paint them to hide in plain sight. I just painted mine black. (Optional) If you had to or wanted to snip off the Zero-G thrusters at the back, to replace with LEDs, you can paint over the parts you don't want to have glow with black paint. I then glued some shrink tube around the ends of the lights, to direct their glow. Step Twelve: Test your newly lit model. If an LED is too bright, you can paint over it in acrylic paint with a like colour and reduce its glow by about 50%. In my case, I painted the jets at the back blue, transitioning to white in the middle. As a result, they don't even look like LEDs until turned on! Hidden in plain sight: the bronze wires on the foot match the base; the black wires are almost invisible in the shadowy recesses; and the blue LEDs are literally painted over. Step Thirteen: Enjoy dazzling your opponents! Here he is with the lights turned low: And the blue lights down the back. You can also see part of the shoulders glowing, though it's hard to see in the pictures properly with my phone camera. Finally here he is on the field, though a damned piece of cat hair happened to fall on him just before I took this photo! I hope you were encouraged by this little "How To" post and you'll go out and do this for your own TAGs! Like I said, the Gecko is perfect due to its hollow nature, but I could easily see an Aragoto bike fit out with a headlight or something similar! If you do this, please let me know. I'd love to see what you accomplish!
  10. Looks like its on its way fairly soon, judging by the speculation thread and the recent video of it being painted. The question to the experienced guys here is then: is it any good? its certainly cheap enough, but i was wondering if anyone had proxied it and had real-world experience with it they could share? is it worth purchasing after proxying it?
  11. Hello fellow Nomads players, Now that the Geckos are finally in sight, and the concept arts are simply amazing it's probably time to talk about their uses and your preferred weapon options. Many of you already used these TAGs proxied by various models (although I must say that luckily I like the concept art more than any of the proxies I've ever seen), so you should have experience with them. Some questions where I'd like to ask for your input: What role do they fulfill in your army? Do you use them just as the other TAGs? How many do you field normally? What weapon loadout do you choose typically for them? Do you field them in Vanilla too or just Corregidor? Do you include any other models with the intent to support / synergize with your Gecko(s)? Cheers
  12. So I have been feeling like I am running in circles with my nomad lists. I wanted to try something new and this is what I came up with. Do you all think this is a viable ITS list? I wanted to put forward observer on the zero, but I would rather have the spare zondbot for Zoe to repair pi-well. NOMADS ────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────── ALGUACIL Lieutenant Combi Rifle / Pistol, Knife (10 | 1) MOV:4-4 CC:13 BS:11 PH:10 WIP:13 ARM:1 BTS:0 W:1 2x ALGUACIL Combi Rifle / Pistol, Knife (10) MOV:4-4 CC:13 BS:11 PH:10 WIP:13 ARM:1 BTS:0 W:1 ZERO Combi Rifle, Antipersonnel Mines / Pistol, Knife (18) MOV:4-4 CC:13 BS:11 PH:12 WIP:13 ARM:0 BTS:0 W:1 ZOE (Hacking Device) Combi Rifle, D-Charges / Pistol, Knife (53) MOV:4-4 CC:13 BS:11 PH:10 WIP:15 ARM:1 BTS:0 W:1 PI-WELL Combi Rifle / Electric Pulse MOV:6-4 CC:8 BS:11 PH:8 WIP:13 ARM:0 BTS:-3 W:1 ZONDBOT Electric Pulse (3) MOV:6-4 CC:8 BS:8 PH:8 WIP:13 ARM:0 BTS:-3 STR:1 REAKTION ZOND HMG + E/M Light Grenade Launcher, Antipersonnel Mines / Electric Pulse (35 | 1) MOV:6-4 CC:8 BS:11 PH:8 WIP:13 ARM:0 BTS:-3 STR:1 GECKO Mk12, Chain-colt, Blitzen / (55 | 1.5) MOV:4-4 CC:15 BS:13 PH:15 WIP:13 ARM:5 BTS:-3 STR:3 Regular, Not Impetuous, Cube Zero-G Terrain GECKO PILOT Pistol, Knife MOV:4-4 CC:13 BS:11 PH:10 WIP:13 ARM:0 BTS:0 W:1 Regular, Not Impetuous, Cube Pilot, Zero-G Terrain GECKO Mk12, Chain-colt, Blitzen / (55 | 1.5) MOV:4-4 CC:15 BS:13 PH:15 WIP:13 ARM:5 BTS:-3 STR:3 Regular, Not Impetuous, Cube Zero-G Terrain GECKO PILOT Pistol, Knife MOV:4-4 CC:13 BS:11 PH:10 WIP:13 ARM:0 BTS:0 W:1 Regular, Not Impetuous, Cube Pilot, Zero-G Terrain 249 Points | SWC: 5