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Found 155 results

  1. Hello guys ! I just started Infinity and I wanted to share my first steps of painting Infinity miniatures with you. I started painting miniatures ( Warhammer AoS&40K ) in February of this year, so don't expect gorgeous work here I started today with a PanO Hexas, still very very WIP obviously, only primed and a bit of grey More to come tomorrow
  2. Greetings all, as a newcomer to the world(s) of Infinity, I'm keen to test my mettle with painting some of the fantastic miniatures. As I hail from a GW background, my painting style has changed over the years as their sculpts got bigger and more 'chunky'. To say I'm a little intimidated by the details on Infinity miniatures would be an understatement, but it's also a good way to push myself out of my comfort zone and to adapt my style accordingly. I started this thread not only to post progress on what I have on the table, but also to keep my motivation going, and also to (hopefully) get some tips, tricks, advice and constructive criticism from everyone out there in the ether. My first foray into the world of Infinity is an ORC Trooper. I think she pretty much decided for me which force I was to collect, as she looks like she just stepped out of an episode of Bubblegum Crisis, so it was a win win for me. I've noticed that a lot of the painting styles here are more of an OSL style moreso than the GW 'edge highlights', so I'm trying to unlearn all that I have learned. I wanted more of a turquoise than the regular blue of the PanOceania that I have seen. Here is the base color blocking that I started with: I used Stegadon Scale Blue as a base, and Codex Grey for the other armor plates. I then washed everything with Nuln Oil to bring the brightness down a little. It looks a little sloppy here but lines etc will be tightened up as I go through. Last night I did some more work on her, just on the blue parts, I'm hoping to start working on the white armor tonight, but here is what she looks like so far: So what do you think so far? I'm not sure what color to do the knee pads... lol! C+C most welcome, thanks for checking out my thread!
  3. Do you guys think the texture behind the Rodoks' masks is supposed to be the Morat "mane" or cabling like on their asses?
  4. So I recently started doing some ( rather cheap ) commission work and at the same time had some limited access to DSLR camera for couple of hours, so I decided to take some quick pictures ( I suck at this ) and show here. Everything is painted with Vallejo colors, GW washes, cheap 12 euro chinese airbrush and old army painter brushes. My first finished piece, Maghariba guard. I attempted some NMM, chipping effects and pigments and I think it all came out rather nicely. Feel free to contact me if you need something painted. Since I am just starting with doing commision work, you can hire me really cheap :-) I've put 1/100 Stug for size and quality comparison ( only airbrush and some pin washing ). Ltd. ABH is work in progress for the same customer.
  5. So, it turned out that my nice 2W daylight led desk lamp is rather not enough for me if I don't want to go blind before my 40th birthday so I have to buy a new desk lamp Now the question as I can see that I can spent as well as 500$ on a painting lamp ;P (os as little as 35$). Does anyone of you have any special experience with "special painting lamps" (along something like that: ) or should go along KISS (keep it simple stupid!) and just buy a pair of swing-arm lamps and invest little more into good LED bulbs with light spectrum around 5500K ?
  6. I decided to start motivating myself by putting up the figures I painted up. Starting with the PanO figures I painted for my friend, then I will add the Nomads I painted for myself, and after that I will keep updating as I finish things for those two armies and eventually for the other armies I want to get going. So without further ado I will start with some of the Ice Storm troops: Next up are some fusiliers. Some of them show the results of me unfortunately not realizing the impact that humidity has on spray varnish... There will be more of that with some of the early Nomads. Live and learn, I'm too slow a painter to strip and redo figures I already finished and none of the internet remedies to remove frosting ended up removing all of the problem. Now I just accept them as a reminder to always be careful with varnish. Also got an Auxilia done, I am quite pleased with how the Auxbot turned out except for the sensor which I think turned out fine but not spectacular.
  7. So after incredibly shallow research I haven't seen an alternative color scheme thread of altered Dossiers with off-studio schemes. I'm starting one to put ideas out there and welcome others to do the same. I always have trouble finding schemes I like and I'm testing stuff out.
  8. Hi everyone- been quite a while that I've been on hiatus from forums in general! But no, I have not actually ended up painting any minis myself. Instead, my girlfriend dipped her toes into this hobby of ours and just finished her first Infinity mini! Given that it's her 14-15th mini to date (with the rest being necrons), I feel I have already been usurped! She put together a blog post for a sort of logbook of our hobbying, with lots of pictures and a breakdown of what paints went where, and how. We're both learning, so any advice from the veterans here would be very much appreciated!
  9. Long time away, and it turns out my old Haqq painting log is archived and Psychotic Storm can't seem to revive it. No matter! EDIT: Now the first painting log is up and running here:, so my little toys are spread over the two topics :-/ Oh well, I'll keep posting here. Posting pics is great motivation to paint more often, as I don't get many games in. If you have ideas to improve the painting or photography I'm keen to hear your thoughts! Here's my latest mini, with a Muyib on the way. Played with a makeshift lightbox, trying to improve the photography. Hope you like! C&C always welcome, I've got one more of these and 2 Kameel remotes to do at some point, so I appreciate suggestions
  10. Long story short, I decided to stop playing unpainted miniatures and upgrade to a full wargaming experience. I play Infinity for mere 3 years and my enthusiasm began to exhaust (generally because I play MAF and don't win a lot). I decided to reboot and to start anew my Combined Army. This thread is made for selfreport and a bit for motivation. Day 0 So, my aim is to have a full painted (and I hope more competitive) CA set of models and starting point to play Onyx sectorial when it would be released. Here is a set of boxes to begin with. From MAF starter only Vanguards would be used. Vanguards have been already assembled and their bases magnetised. I play them a lot. Both as base link of Vanguards and as Rodoks proxies (when 2ed Vanguards proxy Rodoks 1ed Vanguards play Vanguards). All other miniatures are untouched, Avatar laying in a box for two years. Oh, almost forgot! I use proxies for Medcanoid, his helperbots, Ikadrons and Imetrons. They will also get a bit of attention. Day 1 Clean and assemble CA starter. Nothing special here. Day 2 Clean two boxes of battle drones. That was tough. "The Expansion" series helped a lot to not become annoyed with repetitive work (4 pairs of legs, 4 bodies and heads, 10 arms)/ Day 3 Fraacta got her jumpack magnetised and all other miniatures dot their bases decorated with Vallejo's Black Lava. Day 4 Primed all miniatures and bases that were ready at that moment. Speculo joins the project. Three layers of Vallejo's Light Ghost Grey primer applied with airbrush. Day 5 and 6 Assemble and magnetise remotes' arms. This is a hard piece of precious work. "The X-files" and "John Whick" entertained me but work is not done so far. Nothing to photo yet. Day 7 A rest day. Had to refresh before weekend. "Jodorowsky's Dune" impressed, frightened and inspired me a lot. A must for all people here. Comments are welcome. Stay tuned!
  11. Hi Infinity community, I was browsing through this painting threads and enjoyed the fantastic paint jobs! I also noticed that most models are painted in the original Corvus Belli/Angel Giraldez colour scheme. Why is everyone so reluctant to go in a different direction? How about a thread where we collect pictures and links of alternative colour schemes sorted by faction?
  12. It's been a while since I posted any minis, but I've been finishing stuff again recently and I thought I would share! My Kum Bikers- My first attempt at NMM I decided to go for more of an outlaw biker look with the jacket patches and such. I've had my Scarface painted for a while, but I finally finished my Cordelia- I also finished my Janissary w/ AP rifle and CCW- I overexposed the pictures of my Yuan Yuan, but here is one that kinda came out- She is inspired by Mad Moxie from the Borderlands games (my entire terrain scheme is vaguely Borderlands themed, so it made sense). Hopefully I'll have more to share soon, once I take some better pictures and finish some more stuff. Thanks!
  13. History: Any constructive feedback and suggestions are totally welcome - I'm always looking for ways to get better and improve my painting. Another reason for logging painting is motivation. I have some great friends who play and we support each other but by putting stuff out there I hope that it will help keep me motivated after painting the 9th fusileer! So thanks to said friends I'm now attending War of The Worlds III Tagline. Cue a week of frantic list building and painting: Ready to roll for tomorrow! (hidden below the post it is a gecko proxy if I end up with Toni)
  14. Hello All, and welcome to my paint blog. This will be mainly a photo dump of my progress to painting all of my Infinity stuff to date. With the models being as detailed as they are, I'm planning to take my time and push my limits on what I can do as a painter, and as a hobbyist to a degree. My main focus will be on JSA and SAA, with a another faction I'm thinking of dipping my feet into, to round out a triad of factions I want to play as. Without further a ado, let's see some pics! Enjoy! Comments and criticisms are always welcomed, and if you have any questions or perhaps tips, feel free to drop them here. I'll be more than happy to read and reply to them when I can Let's start with the first mini I painted for Infinity, an Oniwaban. Initially started out based on the box art colour scheme, this was a time that my painting skills were...sloppy. A couple of years later, I've stripped it and repainted to what you see. Limited my colour choices to dark greys, blacks and reds, and it came out really good, while showcasing how much I've grown as a painter. FYI, base is from Micro Art Studios. I'll be focusing my efforts into the same palette for rest of my JSA, but seeing resculpts of older boxes is making me hesitant to continuing with what I have (The Keisotsus are so short!) Any news on which resculpts JSA is getting, and when? Next, Read more of the fluff of Infinity (I went shiny syndrome first and foremost, so reading the rules was a later thing that happened) and noticed that my dream of a Filipino aligned faction came in the form of the SAA. Loved the Tikabalang, stoked about Toni (pre-squatting), and loved the whole jungle/guerilla warfare theme. So grabbed their box (which was luckily of the new sculpts) and went to town...slowly Here's what I have currently for SAA: Planning to paint a 150 pt. list for a demo I'll be having soon with a buddy that just started. So it'll be a proper romp through some Infinity for the both of us. But before I see myself finishing my first 150, I'll have to figure out my first model. Wanted to be the special snowflake again with this one, but the longer I stared at the official schemes and the concept artwork shown on Gencon 2015, I was sold on the Blues and Greens. So here's a Regular in progress, with me trying out NMM's for the first time: Love how the blues turned out, and it strengthened my confidence for the rest of the faction. Will be finishing this guy soon enough. So that's it for now, hope you liked what you've seen.
  15. Hi, as a new Infinity Player I just started to paint my first Tohaa. And here they are. First my Test-Kamael to figure out my colorscheme. Then my Sakiel And last but not least my first Pokemonleader I am always happy for Comments and Critics! Greetings, Marnack
  16. Recently I've been trying to paint some haqqislam miniatures as well as some space marines. Every scheme I come up with just doesn't satisfy me, I get so annoyed as I try paint scheme after paint scheme and make no progress. Everything I paint just makes me want to toss in the towel. Any suggestions for getting out of a painting funk?
  17. I recently finished some Keisotsu guys. I've got a slideshow of the progress on my blog here. Let me know what you guys think. I really like how he turned out.
  18. In this tutorial I'd like to show you step by step how to paint shiny armors for PanOceanian minis. A lot of you guys asked me for it, so I decided to share these pics and tips with you. I hope you'll find them helpful. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. I'm a newbie in making tutorials and I hope you will help me to improve my hmm... "teaching?" skills by leaving comments and giving advises. Remember that you can use whatever paints or colors you like (especially cold colors) and mix them in the way you want. It doesn't have to be blue. It doesn't have to be PanOceania. Note that Nissa mini, which I painted for this tutorial isn't the same mini as Nissa in the picture above. I forgot to take some pics during work and I made this tutorial after I finished PanO army. This Nissa is my own mini. The point is, that technique which i used for painting them is exactly the same Let's start then! Prime your mini with your favorite color. In most cases I use black primer, cause I'm used to this and it's easier for me to work with it. White primer provides more vibrant final colors, so you can use it if you like. As you can see my mini is pre-shaded. I used airbrush and some grey. This trick helped me to get a lighter blue on the armor and get a general volume effect. Paints that I used: 1. base color: Vallejo Air French Blue 71.088 (Vallejo Model Color 70.899 Dark Prusia Blue is a good choice too) 2. lighter tones: Vallejo Air Light Sea Blue 71.089 and Vallejo Model Color 70.961 Sky Blue 3. highlights: Vallejo Model Color 70.961 Sky Blue and Vallejo Model Color 70.951 White 4. glazes and shades: Vallejo Game Color 72.088 Blue Ink, Vallejo Air 71.091 Signal Blue and Vallejo Game Color 72.051 Black You can also use blue fluorescent pigment, but it isn't necessary. I like it, but you can skip this step and it will still look good. This trick works better on bigger parts and infinity minis are very tiny. You probably won't see spectacular difference on pics, but despite of this fact, I decided to mention about this product. Maybe you'd like to try it someday, it's a great fun to use it 1. I applied a base color ( French Blue) in several thin layers to get good coverage. 2.Then, I applied Light Sea Blue to the areas, which I want to look brighter, using an airbrush. It looked like this: Basically you don't need an airbrush to use this technique I use it cause it's easy to get smooth transition of colors with it and it helps me to paint faster, but I know that not everybody has it. If you prefer brush, you can simply use it. (I showed how to get similar effect with brush on the left thigh of the mini. First, I repainted it with a base color ) I applied 1:1 mix of French Blue and Light Sea Blue to the areas that I wanted to look brighter. Try to use several, very thin layers of paint, to get as smooth transition as you can. Remember that the more layers you apply, the more intense the color gets. Sometimes it's not about using brighter paint but more layers of the same, but very thin paint. So you will use the same mixture of paints but the painted area will be smaller and smaller; From darker tones (fewer layers of color) to brighter (more layers of color) If you don't know how to get a proper consistence of paint, imagine that it has to be transparent but not too thin, cause you don't want to sink your mini. Maybe this balance It's the main secret of layering. Forget about "milk consistence" and stuff. Sounds wise, but I doubt that anybody know how it really looks. At least, I have no idea. Let's do the small test. Get a flat plastic surface (for example pallette) wich is already painted, or has a kind of pattern. Draw a line on it with your paint. If paint covers everything, it is to thick for making layers. If it isn't cover anything, just spills around, and creates irregular shapes with ugly edges it is too thin. Perfect layer of paint will cover the surface easily and evenly (put a small amount of pressure on your brush) but it's also very transparent and you can see what's underneath. You have to find that moment when paint is still transparent and doesn't have ugly edges after it dries :). Of course sometimes, you will need even thinner paint for extremely smooth effects and for glazes, but in general, tip which I described works very good Try this and maybe your color transitions will turn out to be smoother Next, I applied two or three thin layers of pure Light See Blue on the brighter areas. Take your time and try to get a very smooth transition of colors. As you can see the difference isn't very huge. You can do it without airbrush. It just takes longer and you'll have to be patient and careful. 3. Next, I applied some Signal Blue to the areas, which I wanted to look darker. You can do it with airbrush or brush and you don't have to try to make extremely smooth color transition this time, cause we'll add some blue glaze later and it should fix everything 4. I think this step is one of the most important thing in this whole tutorial and painting minis in general. Infinity minis are very detailed and If you want to make them look bright and clear you can't miss any detail. I tried to separate every plate of the armor and every single piece of equipment with a thin, dark line. It helps me to bring out the real shape of the mini and get a bit dramatic/comic look. You just need a thin and sharply pointed brush and some patience. 'Wash' seems to be easy choice to make things faster, but trust me, painting dark lines is better. Trust the force, jedi Black seems to be an obvious choice, but again I used Signal Blue. It's very interesting color. Very intense and dark, but not too dark. I tried both and I think Signal Blue is better. It looks like this: 5. It's time to add some lighter tones with brush. I put several layers of pure Light Sea Blue to the brighter areas. I tried to get a quite smooth transition, but not too smooth. It's a kind of NMM technique. If you want to make your mini look vibrant and dramatic, you have to keep quite strong contrast between colors. Otherwise everything will look a bit flat. I also started to highlight some edges with Light Sea Blue. Remember that highlights have to be very thin. It's easier to draw a thin line with sharply pointed brush. For painting highlights on flatter surfaces (like thighs armor) I suggest you to use a middle part of the brush hair. Try to cover the brush hair evenly, with a very small amount of paint, then delicate touch the edge with the middle part of the brush hair and try to draw a line. Paint will stay on the edge only. Remember that paint shouldn't be too thin, cause line will be blurred and you need a really sharp line 6. Next, I applied a thin layer of Light Sea Blue and Sky Blue mixture (1:1) to the brightest parts of the armor. After that, I highlighted every single edge with pure Sky Blue. Don't avoid any of them It's very important. Lines can be thicker, if they border brighter areas. 7. Now it's time to make our shades look deeper The best way to achieve it, is using inks. Inks are very transparent but also very vibrant, so we're gonna use blue ink as a glaze. The only trap is that sometimes it turns out too glossy To avoid it, I mixed Blue Ink with a drop of 'matt medium'. Then, I applied it in a thin layer to darker and middle-tone parts of the armor. If your transitions between colors wasn't perfectly smooth, this layer will help you to cover it up. When it dries, you'll get strong blue color and deeper contrast on your armor. Blue pigment trick: Sometimes, when surface is still too glossy I use some a layer of blue fluo pigment mixed with acrylic binder or some matt medium. When it dries it is very matt but it keeps strong and crazy color. 8. Then, I applied some pure black paint to the darkest areas to increase the overall contrast of the armor plates. 9. Finally I added some tiny spots with pure white on the edges and draw few very thin scratches on the armor plates. This step make your mini look hmm.. shiny These little spots catch an eye, so paint them gently on the part, which you want to bring out, but don't overdo it, cause you can loose the effects of your blending, and everyone will see only white lines. So that's all I guess I do hope you like this tutorial and you find it useful. I'm very happy that I can share it with you and I wish you all happy painting! I'm sure you'll improve this technique and I hope I'll improve it too in the future It's an effect of trials and errors method and I think I have still a lot of errors to make. If you are interested and want to see more of my minis, just check out my Topic/Gallery or visit my fb page Links below. Live long and prosper guys, Shiz
  19. Alriiiighty then gentlemen (and ladies), off into Februari we are! January winners: HYDRA & STORMYGEDDON New Painting Support Group Rules Post a picture of an unpainted model you pledge to paint. Paint it and post your proof. PICS or it DID NOT happen. Rinse and repeat as much as you like. For each model you enter at Silhouette size S1 or S2, you get one ticket into the raffle. An S3 or S4 model is worth two tickets. S5 and up is worth three tickets. At the beginning of the next month, a winner two winners! are drawn from the raffle. If you want to bring in something that you started on last month but didn't finish, it's perfectly fine to bring it again now! Prizes, you say? The February NPSG is consistently and proudly sponsored by: Shae-Konnit Games Shae's pledged another €30 gift voucher for his website. Nice! Also returning is: Systema Gaming Their contribution is equally awesome like last month: From Systema-owner Primoz Pirs: Check out Systema's acrylics over here to get an idea of what you could bring home by painting some minis this month! How cool is that?! If you want to bring in something that you started on last month but didn't finish, it's perfectly fine to bring it again now!
  20. Hey everyone! Went shopping today! So the idea for this project is, I have one week to quickly assemble, and paint a high-tabletop quality army that's ready for play! If anyone wants to join along, and post their progress, or just give input/advice that would be awesome! The supplies so far; Rustoleum American accents 2x ultra cover black primer Rustoleum Camoflauge 2x ultra cover dark green Army painter quickshade UV resistant clear gloss Testors Dullcote Brushes Rubber gloves! FIRST UPDATE! I was a bit overwhelmed with all the metal in front of me! I was a bit worried about mixing up the pieces, making it harder to identify which arm goes with which body etc. To save time identifying parts, I seperated each model by keeping them in the individual baggies they came in! I add one drop of soap, then filled each bag with water. To prevent leaks I placed all the baggies inside a larger plastic tub, then filled with water, and soap!
  21. Hi Guys, I will finally have some time again to continue painting my miniatures. I did manage to put most of the 4 armies into base-coat last time. However, most of the minis are now covered by a thin fine layer of dust. Any good way to brush it off? Can i just use a soft toothbrush and some water with soap to wash the minis clean? Or will it effect the basecoat? Furthermore, any good tips to keep minis dust clear between painting sessions? Don't have a lot of closed closet space so i wont be able to put them in a closed space. All advice welcome. Kind Regards, Sebastiaan
  22. Hi all. thought I'd start a painting log here. I have one at cmon but this is such a friendly forum I'd rather spend time here. Plus this will be restricted to infinity minis. Im starting with the PanO minis from ice storm. Primed with army painter black, then vmc Prussian blue basecoat. From there I did a first highlight with some vmc blue green. Very early stages but I'll try to update as I go. These minis are by far the best metals I've had and think they'll suit my style. Lots of blending, glazes and contrast. Please feel free to chip in with advice or opinions. Forums are great for developing skills and I want to paint these as well as possible! First photos to follow... Oh forgot to mention this was preshaded with grey and white.
  23. Hello there! Finally coming back to painting after longterm break! Here's the new stuff - ninja hacker: More photo in a better resolution and some words about mini here. Hope you find it interesting! Any kind of feedback is very appreciated.
  24. Thought I'd go ahead and get a thread going to house my Infinity painting stuff, as there seems to be more and more of it here lately. I'll be posting a lot of this in the painting challenge thread(s) but this will collect it all, as well as having some commentary, WIP shots, etc. Going to do a few posts to get this thing up to date. First up, we have my borderlands inspired Rafiq remote for my QK force. I thought this would be an interesting direction to go with the force, given their sort of merc heavy nature. Had a lot of fun painting this guy, and it came out well enough that I decided to follow through with the scheme *eventually. and in profile...
  25. I've been playing Infinity off and on for a couple of years now, and figure it's time to finally give these guys (and gals) some color! I decided to go with a standard green and tan color scheme because I haven't done much with greens so far. Rather than attempting NMM, I went with a ceramic/composite look for their weapons and most items that would usually be metallic. So far I'm pretty happy with the result and feel like it adds some visual interest to what would usually be just another silver spot. I'll probably come back and spruce up the bases later. Right now my priority is on getting them painted and back on the table. I picked up the Kum troopers for a painting contest at my local game store - I ordered it with about a month to spare, but a series of shipping issues and a missing part only left me with about 8 hours to paint it. I have to say, this model was a joy to paint! Lots of little details and some real personality on his face.