Toaster

The Problem with Reptiles

21 posts in this topic

Wow, this is an ambitious project. Good on you for trying it out. As an avowed fan of the Lizard's design, I'm really curious to see what you come up with for these Geckos.

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Maybe you can cheat a bit if you make molds from the legs and other parts of your existing mechs?

 

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@ Kernspalt,

That would involve spending money, assuming I could even find the product here in NZ. It would also defeat one of the secondary aims of this project, which is to get better at sculpting. And finally that steps just a little closer to figure piracy than I'm personally comfortable with.

But thanks for the thought.

Robert

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This thread is great! Looking forward to you progress and how you solve any dilemmas.  Thanks for sharing.

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So the arms are started, these are the plastic forms with wire for the forearms.

WIN_20160928_21_30_10_Pro_zpszdk7qkne.jp

And blue tacked in place.

WIN_20160928_21_31_44_Pro_zpsioxivsyu.jp

And the master arms are now fitted and just need a little work once dry.

WIN_20160928_22_11_06_Pro_zpslpkbumqe.jp

 

Robert

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And here they are finished and ready for painting.

DSCF6885_zpsf9kqhnim.jpg

Chain colt, pistol sized and drum fed as per fluff.

DSCF6886_zps9pdhlkig.jpg

And the question everyone asks about the Gecko; Where's the panzerfaust?

DSCF6887_zpsjmzdijgh.jpg

The're sitting in the kitchen waiting to be washed as I type this.

 

Robert

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So I've moved house in the last month which has certainly delayed the project but they are now painted and ready for the table.

DSCF6888_zpsy8ptxsqn.jpg

DSCF6889_zpscfcnaarp.jpg

DSCF6890_zpsctzbd55l.jpg

 

Next to the official Geckos (Gecko MkII still in limited use with Pan-O training units before pilots graduate to full VR, They found that knowing that stuff ups could potentially hurt improved pilot quality markedly hence the retention of the cheapest to operate manned TAG).

DSCF6896_zpsiikldg0j.jpg

 

And all 6 of my TAGs, I seem to have reached break point as I am at 50/50 brought/scratch-built. I now have to decide between going all scratch built or buying one for each I build and building one for each I buy to maintain status quo. I imagine I'll go all scratch built unless I suddenly become rich.

DSCF6897_zpsvez93tqf.jpg

 

This project has improved my sculpting but not as much as I'd hoped, sharp edged items like weapons still elude me. I've also learned that drybrushing is a great way to find every fingerprint I failed to smooth off my model, my Geckos look like they've had a hard life and just enough maintenance to get them back in the field.

 

Robert

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Sharp edges? GS requires changing the mix, or mixing it with something else, or better, pick a different putty altogether.

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It's not that my green stuff won't form a sharp edge, it's that I can't sculpt one straight enough without mucking up other parts of the same piece. and no I'm not working on to much of the model at a time I've gone down to the smallest size I can work with and still can't seem to find the trick.

 

Robert

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Those TAGs are amazing!  I would be very daunted to take on something that challenging; I'm generally unhappy with even the smallest sculpting jobs I attempt.

If you use a harder material like Milliput (or a 50/50 mix of Milliput and green stuff, since they are compatible), the final result is much harder, allowing you to file and sand the surface.  This gives you some additional options for creating hard edges after everything has cured, as well as smoothing out the surface.  Just be aware the pure Milliput can be somewhat brittle, and will chip and break much more easily than green stuff.

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Milliput Superfine (the white one) is way less brittle than the Standard (greenish/yellowish one).

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Superfine is the only one I've used, and the only times it's just fallen apart on me are when I think I didn't mix it well enough.  But it's still a concern.

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Mixing Superfine is tricky... both parts are white. The other has different colors, yet it will be more brittle even if the final color is homogeneous.

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If you can find any, the Polymeric "brown stuff" holds an edge exactly like green stuff doesn't, as it has no memory effect.  You can blend them, or most any pair of two-part putties, together to get intermediate properties as well.

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On 12/18/2016 at 5:11 PM, Toaster said:

It's not that my green stuff won't form a sharp edge, it's that I can't sculpt one straight enough without mucking up other parts of the same piece. and no I'm not working on to much of the model at a time I've gone down to the smallest size I can work with and still can't seem to find the trick.

 

Robert

I wait for the GS to set up most of the way (about 45min after mixing) and then cut it with a fresh xacto blade.  Or wait till it hardens all the way (24 hours), drip some super-thin superglue on it to really harden things, and then carve from there.

But gray stuff or brown/aluminum putty (aka gas tank repair putty) is much better for hard edges.

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