Varsovian

Cheap tokens?

23 posts in this topic

Once again, I'm thinking of how to approach making tokens and I could use some advice...

So far, I know that I want to have the tokens printed on a high-quality paper (250g type). Now, the question is: how to make the tokens a bit more rigid and durable? So far, the solutions I'm considering are:

1. Laminate the tokens before cutting them out.

2. Glue the tokens onto even more paper to make them thicker.

3. Glue the tokens onto round mini bases.

4. Cover the tokens with round epoxy stickers.

The approach with epoxy stickers seems nice, but I've read that epoxy stickers tend to yellow with time? Also, buying a lot of stickers isn't extremely cheap... On the other hand, would paper tokens last long enough and would they be easy to handle?

Overall, any advice on making tokens?

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I printed them up on avery labels and then mounted them on cardboard about 1mm thick. This also lets you make them double sided. It makes the token box a lot smaller. I found the following combinations useful.

  • 1 wound/unconscious 
  • Camo/repeater
  • Suppression fire with different states/hacker buffs on the back.

I've found action tokens need to be singlesided because everyone flips them when they are used.

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I mounted my order tokens on 3mm MDF circles that I cut out of an old drawer base using a 25mm hole saw. For my state tokens and markers i glued them to matte board (availiable free from most picture framers, just ask for the scrap off-cuts).

Robert

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I've had tokens covered with round epoxy puffy stickers for years, no yellowing.  Buy them on amazon in hundred+ lots from China, especially since you should use two stickers per token so they're easier to pick up.

 

One good suggestion I've had is actually to double-side your printed tokens.  Order tokens need red and blue Infinity 'N's, camo tokens need mines (I'd put mono and viral mines behind TO camo tokens), IMP1 and IMM1 need IMP2/IMM2.  I think I'd put 1W and 2W together, 3W and Unconscious+Prone (overlapped) together (because an Unconscious TAG isn't prone, you will need a few plain unconscious markers!)

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I absolutely second the epoxy stickers - works a charm. I printed mine on photo stock, used a 1" round punch ($10 at Micheal's), and went to work. I only used one sticker per token, except the ones I use the most (orders, prone, camo, etc).

 

If you really wanted to get fancy you could come up with your own design and have them laser-cut...

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These have always worked for me a printer and a local arts and crafts store.

post-21421-13534235515656.jpg

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Hmmm... Regarding buying from China: is it safe? I've seen offers for epoxy stickers on Ebay and the Chinese offers are surprisingly low-priced. But I'm not sure if it's not a scam?

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1 hour ago, Varsovian said:

Hmmm... Regarding buying from China: is it safe? I've seen offers for epoxy stickers on Ebay and the Chinese offers are surprisingly low-priced. But I'm not sure if it's not a scam?

I've never bought stickers from ebay, always Amazon.  Still really cheap, even with shipping across the Pacific.  And Amazon has better fraud protection than eBay.

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7 hours ago, Section 9 said:

One good suggestion I've had is actually to double-side your printed tokens.  Order tokens need red and blue Infinity 'N's, camo tokens need mines (I'd put mono and viral mines behind TO camo tokens), IMP1 and IMM1 need IMP2/IMM2.  I think I'd put 1W and 2W together, 3W and Unconscious+Prone (overlapped) together (because an Unconscious TAG isn't prone, you will need a few plain unconscious markers!)

Seconding the double siding of certain tokens. I do this. 
Camo/AP mines. imm1/imm2 and a few others (damage status like damaged/destroyed among them).

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Thanks for the advice!

I was thinking on alternatives to epoxy stickers... I'm wondering about doing something like that:

1. I'd print the tokens on good-quality paper.

2. I'd cut them out and glue them to 1mm thick cardboard.

3. Then, I'd cover the printed faces with decoupage varnish.

Do you that would work?

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Inkjet printers will smudge if you get them wet, so you'd be better off rattlecan or airbrushing clear sealer than brushing.

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I ordered some 25mm bases lasercut from 3mm HDF board, printed markers, then applied scotch tape on top of print, cut and glued markers to both sides of HDF bases.

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8 hours ago, Section 9 said:

Inkjet printers will smudge if you get them wet, so you'd be better off rattlecan or airbrushing clear sealer than brushing.

Hm. Good point. Thanks.

1 hour ago, sarf said:

I ordered some 25mm bases lasercut from 3mm HDF board, printed markers, then applied scotch tape on top of print, cut and glued markers to both sides of HDF bases.

Scotch tape! Now that's something I didn't think of...

How about simply having the token sheets laminated and then cutting the tokens out with a paper punch? Sounds nice in theory, but I'm wondering whether it won't cause laminate fraying at the edges...

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I don't think it would last, as there would be no plastic joined on the edges of a token.

Still, if you have all the stuff, I'd try it. One sheet worth of paper, one pouch of plastic for the laminating device, a few minutes work is cheap enough. If it turns out decent, great, if not, it didn't cost you much to try.

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SImple solution against the fraying that i just thought about (no idea if it would actually work): Superglue on the edges, just a layer.

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I'm afraid it would make the transparent plastic to fog over.

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18 minutes ago, Errhile said:

I'm afraid it would make the transparent plastic to fog over.

Right, my bad. Some 5 minute epoxy then, that should work instead.

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I must say, however, the tokens I made out of heavy paper (papier wizytówkowy), superglued on top of spare plastic bases and then sealed with spray-on varnish withstood time pretty well (they were still operational when I've seen them - I gave them away to a novice player when I switched to MAS tokens).

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I found 1" wooden discs from a supplier online (Casey's wood products).  They provide volume discounts.  I print the tokens in color on regular paper.  Toadchild's token generator allows for efficient printing of the tokens you want.  A 1" round punch from a hobby store is VERY worth the ~$10.  Using Mod Podge, I brush a thin layer on the disc, and affix the cutout token.  After I've completed that step for all the tokens, the first ones I started on should be dry. I then paint on thin layer of Mod Podge on top to seal the token.  Sometimes a second layer, if I feel saucy. 
 
This makes super durable, easy to pick up tokens that are relatively inexpensive. 

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17 hours ago, Errhile said:

I'm afraid it would make the transparent plastic to fog over.

Sometimes it goes away by just rubbing. Or varnishing with gloss.

Also keeping a fan aimed at the parts while glue dries can help.

The issue is when the fog is impossible to reach, like inside the cabin you just glued.

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OK, guys, thanks for all the advice!

I admit I was tempted to do some crazy things with the tokens, like glueing them onto balsa circles etc. - but then, I recalled that I wanted to make *cheap* tokens :D So, I'll be going with the Scotch tape and thick cardboard. Let's see how it turns out :)

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